HUNGER’s staycation edit: Somerset and Devon
After too many months spent in the big smoke, a trip to the countryside is a much needed break. And if you’re craving picturesque country scenes that are often found on postcards, or the dreams of American tourists, then Somerset and Devon deliver in spades. This time around, we took a trip to the twinned coastal towns of Lynton and Lynmouth, and then headed to the ancient village of Mells.
STAY: Tors Park
The incessant April drizzle may suggest otherwise, but summer is just around the corner. And how better to celebrate its arrival than with a trip to the beautiful Devon coast? There, nestled into the cliffs of Lynmouth, you’ll find Tors Park holiday apartments — a cosy but modern base for a weekend away from the hustle and bustle of city life. So, if you don’t have your staycation booked already, we’ve done the research for you…
Lynmouth itself is as idyllic as it comes. It’s exactly what springs to mind when you picture a ‘matchbox village’ — there are rows of quaint fishing cottages, cafés, restaurants and independent shops all clustered around the harbour. Plus, Exmoor National Park, where you can find wild ponies, deer and a whole host of birdlife, is only on the doorstep, meaning you can really reconnect with nature while you’re there. There’s also a beach with a delightful hidden-cove feel sitting just below the village. And best of all, you don’t even have to leave Tors Park to soak up its serenity — the apartments have extra large windows, as well as balconies, so you can enjoy the panoramic view from wherever you’re cosied up.
In fact, Tors Park is made for cosying up. The apartments have comfy furnishings, as well as log burners to give that literal sense of warmth you crave on a staycation (plus you can curl up next to it with a good book if the weather takes a turn for the worst). But, cosy as they are, Tors Park is a far cry from the olde-worlde feel of the village — each of the apartments, which sleep two, four or six (price depending on the season) was tastefully crafted by the then 25-year-old designer India Glover to include fresh white walls and sleek wooden flooring throughout the open-plan living quarters and bedrooms. And, they’re dog-friendly, so you can take your furry family members along with you.
EATS:
Many of the village’s pubs are also dog-friendly (which you’ll undoubtedly be visiting, not just for the charm but because Tors Park is self-catered). We recommend The Rising Sun, an authentic fisherman’s pub opposite the harbour, as well as the Ancient Mariner, which is named after Coleridge’s poem of the same name, written in Lynmouth in 1798. It’s also the best place to get regional Exmoor Ales beer and cider (the favourite local tipple is Exmoor Gold). There’s a fantastic chippy called Esplanade Fish and Chips just around the corner, too, which has super quick service and great options if you prefer to dine al fresco. And while you’re out and about, you might spot local celebs like Tony Blackburn, Elkie Brooks, Susan George and some of The Kinks. Or, if the log burner is beckoning you, take your chips back to Tors Park — it’s only a ten minute walk away and the ideal spot for some well-deserved R&R.
Mells, Somerset
STAY: The Talbot Inn
Every nook and cranny of Mells has visitors pulling out their iPhones to snap pictures of the vast expanse of country green and the rose clad thatched cottages. It is relaxation at its finest; there is literally nothing to do than traverse the fields, visit the one local shop, go to the grade II St Andrew’s Church, which is the last resting place of WWW1 poet Siegfried Sassoon, and of course, pop into to the Talbot Inn. Part pub, part luxury hotel, it is Mells’ community centre, and one of those special institutions that has oodles of charm; there are two courtyards, one grassy with picnic tables, where you can soak up the sun, ale in hand, overlooking some of the county’s most remote landscapes. But there is also bang up grub, regular supper clubs, quiz evenings, and more; the Talbot has kept its historic stylings, but modernised just enough by way of luxury accommodation.
Speaking of sleep, there are eight bedrooms varying from small doubles (£140 including breakfast) to extra large doubles (£200 a night including breakfast). Details are not skimped on; there’s Siberian goose down bedding, crisp Egyptian cotton sheets, all-natural Bramley products, and the larger rooms benefit from roll top baths, walk in showers and four poster beds. Elsewhere, it’s evident that this is locally run; the beers are supplied by nearby breweries, gin from local distilleries and the wine from The Beckford Bottle Shop of Bath, which is less than an hour away.
The menus too are standout, and change with the seasons; meat and game come from local farms, fish is from the Cornwall coast and fresh leaves are picked just a few steps away in the Talbot’s kitchen garden (we’d recommend the charcuterie platter after a long walk, and whatever the catch of the day is). So it’s no wonder then that the inn has attracted A-list attention, the Beckhams and Courteney Cox have been known to bike over from the nearby Babington House to have some pints — but regardless of who you are, you will undoubtedly be welcomed with open arms here.
EAT: Holm Somerset
The team behind the buzzy London-based institutions Salon, Levan and Larry’s have branched out into the countryside with Holm, bringing a helping on on-trend foodie culture to the south west. Nestled in the small town of South Petherton, Holm almost looks out of place with its chic minimalist vibe, but rest assured, this is very much a local eatery. In winter you can opt for the snug, or the kitchen counter to watch the chef’s work, but in the summer months, sit in the courtyard overlooking Holm’s garden and feast on their ever-changing seasonal menus, which are inspired by what the local farmers, growers, butchers, gamekeepers and fishermen have been able to source. The food is decidedly British but elevated to the max; we dined on salt cod beignets, lamb from Bagnell farm, and a starter of burrata with peach, chilli and basil — glorious.
SEE: Hauser & Wirth
It’s difficult to sum up Hauser & Wirth, but it certainly is a feast for the senses. Occupying a former farmstead in Bruton, it is home to galleries, art installations, artist residencies, a shop, a bar, and more. This summer, plan to spend a few hours wandering around its latest multidisciplinary exhibition, GRUPPENAUSSTELLUNG, which is a celebration of Hauser & Wirth’s Swiss heritage, and comprises a playful presentation of over 20 artists including Cindy Sherman. Then, its stunning Oudolf Field is unmissable. Designed by renowned landscape designer Piet Oudolf, it’s a large perennial meadow that sits behind the gallery buildings, and it looks wildly different month on month due to the changing seasons — right now, it’s in full bloom.
View this post on Instagram
TAKE HOME: Durslade Farm Shop Somerset
No countryside escape is complete without a visit to a farm shop to stock up on produce (and luxuries) to bring back home. After you’ve taken a drive south through rambling Bruton to Hauser & Wirth, pop next door to the Durslade Farm Shop, which stocks an array of local Somerset produce, as well as objects from various makers and artisans. From hand-glazed crockery to a range of artisanal produce, you can spend hours browsing here. We took home a big bag of goodies, filled with cured wagyu beef, rhubarb and ginger jam and chocolate covered honeycomb.
